Aristo-Craft G

Model railroading in all scales and gauges. HO talk welcome :)
A No.1
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Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by A No.1 »

Was thinking of getting a LITTLE bit into some G.

I already have about 40feet of track. Looking to run it around a room in the house.

Was looking for some Aristo-Craft reviews. Is this good stuff? Quality? Is this the way to go?

Thank you for the help.
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Fred
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by Fred »

I compare Aristocraft as the Largescale version of Athearn. I have about 75 Aristo frt cars and 5 locomotives. I have no complaints.

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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by h710railfan »

I have a aristo Craft E8 and belive me Aristo Craft does a very good job with prototipical detail.
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GP9R
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by GP9R »

A No.1 wrote:Was thinking of getting a LITTLE bit into some G.

I already have about 40feet of track. Looking to run it around a room in the house.

Was looking for some Aristo-Craft reviews. Is this good stuff? Quality? Is this the way to go?

Thank you for the help.
that would give me a place to run my 1:20.3 West Side Lumber shay

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SD80MAC
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by SD80MAC »

Aristo Craft, LGB and Bachmann are the big names in G. I think MTH makes pretty good G as well.
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A No.1
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by A No.1 »

Thank you for the input. Im ordering more track now. Going with the Solid Brass Rail. I just wish someone would make an accurate GTW GP9 passenger engine. Let me think, Like the 4913 :!: LoL.
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by railohio »

Pay attention to scale as you buy equipment. It all runs on the same gauge track but it scales out differently as some represents narrow gauge and some represents standard gauge equipment.
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by A No.1 »

Ok, I'm committed to 1:29th scale. Looks like that leaves me with Aristo-Craft and USA Trains. I Believe they are both 1:29th. So I think that MTH is like 1:35th or something on that order and LGB is something weird. I picked up 2 Aristo-Craft Box Cars yesterday. MAN THEY ARE COOL! I got LOTS more Track to. I must have over 100 feet now.
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DTI973
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by DTI973 »

A No. 1,

What era are you going for? That will shape some of the answers you seek.

MTH is 1/32 (that's standard gauge for No.1 gauge track).

If you want a GP9 then you'll have to buy a USA Trains GP7 and modify it. Although USA Trains calls there engine a GP7 and GP9 in reality it's a GP7. They call it a GP9 when they put on a dynamic brake blister - the same as Lionel did years ago.

As to your question of detail. Aristo is heavy with thier details (they are proud of that fact) a bit more toy-like. The rivets are bigger and the grabs and stirrups are thick. USA Trains on the other hand makes some more scale details (albeit a bit more fragile due to the more scale sizes). If you're doing 50's and 60's era then I'd suggest USA since they offer both 40' and 50' PS1 boxcars. Aristo currently only offers 40' boxcars for that era.

What era are you interested in?

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A No.1
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by A No.1 »

Well, I'm starting off my collection with some early GTW stuff. I bought a USA TRAINS NW2 that Todd Cline is painting for me. So I'm starting out wit stuff from the 40's 50's and 60's.
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gtwhogger
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by gtwhogger »

Aaron, like I have told you in person the USA trains GP7 is way off from a GP9 plus GTW had 2 different phases of GP9's which pose major scratch building issues since you haven't made these types of mods before to speak of, the torpedo tubes used on USA Trains are grossly incorrect, no one makes accurate ones so the ones I made are turned out of brass bar stock plus the piping is incorrect, no one makes an accurate Winterzation hatch for the 3 variations we had on the GTW so scratch building is the only option, the molded on louver's need to be correctly removed and added to be the correct phases which I had to scratch build on mine and made molds to do mine, the molded on headlights suck so I was able to find some Twin Pyle's that are cast resin they are crude but passable to use, now if you want a GP9 late phase that has 48" fans scratch building is the only option since using fans off a GP35-40 will not work in that they are incorrect for the GP9's we had! no one makes a Nathan M3H in G that I am aware of with the correct bell placement but if some one does make the standard M3 then modifying it will be necessary, I'm trying to get my hands on a real one to measure up to turn my own bells and diaphragms and mill the manifolds, then I have to turn my own steam generator vents since no one makes those! the fuel tanks are incorrect so modifying those are a must, frame and on and on, don't forget to modify the trucks side frames to put the correct North West Shortline 40" wheels in place of the 37" crap used on the USA Trains.

One good thing that needs modifying is the handrails, they have the correct stanchions but ends need extensive work to be accurate, the model is a great platform but tons of work needs to be done to make them correct GTW models but this falls into the same with any scale that no one makes a correct model to just throw paint on it and decals to be a true GTW loco, now do you want to talk about correct decals? sorry none available they are also incorrect wet noddles and the only option is the 1961 orange and black or the 1971 orange and blue, but pre 1961 maple leaf Forget it unless you special order them like I will have to do.

I have to finish the hood and will post photos

A No.1
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by A No.1 »

I can't wait to see your GP-9. I not sure if Im up to the challenge of hand makeing all the correct parts for a trunk GP-9 kit. It pisses me off that these model companys mess this stuff off so bad.
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Todd Cline
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Re: Aristo-Craft G

Unread post by Todd Cline »

Guys, there is a great forum out there called Diesel Detailer. Not sure of the exact address right now, but I have been with them for about 6 months. Mostly HO scalers, but everybody there really gets right down to the last little phillips screw placed in the correct location on the proper fratastat, and the correct thickness of the gizmo.
Check them out.

Todd

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