How do you tack/nail your track down?

Model railroading in all scales and gauges. HO talk welcome :)
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danted23
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How do you tack/nail your track down?

Unread post by danted23 »

Hello,

I have a question about Atlas part 2540 (HO/N Track nails). I have a 4x8 HO scale layout using Code 083 Atlas track. I have the track laid on top of Woodland Scenics roadbed. I am debating how to tack the track down now. I bought some small "spikes" that fit in to the holes that are pre-cut in to the ties, but they're way too short to actually do anything. These little spikes are between a quarter and a half of an inch.

I'm thinking about purchasing the nails that Atlas makes (part #2540). I think that they'll be long enough but do you know if they're small enough in diameter to fit in to the two pre-cut holes that each track piece already has cut in the ties? If they're too large to fit in to the holes already cut in the ties, how are they supposed to be used?

Also, when tacking your track down, is the spike/nail supposed to go through the roadbed and go in to the plywood? Or is it just supposed to pierce the roadbed and stay in place that way?

Thanks in advance!

Dante

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AARR
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Unread post by AARR »

The nails I use go through roadbed into the wood. I don't think the track will stay secured if it only goes into the cork roadbed. If 1/2" isn't long enough, and it seems like it should be, but if it isn't get a longer nail. If you need to drill out the wholes in the ties a little bigger for the nails to fit.
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sd70accsxt700
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Unread post by sd70accsxt700 »

If you are using the Atlas track the Atlas nails are made to be compatable. They will go down into the wood. I use cork, from Midwest products, but the cork and "foam" woodland roadbed are the same thickness. Just make sure you get a small enough hammer head, or somthing to hit the "spike" head with so you dont dammage the track. Also dont pound it in too hard, just till it touches the top of the tie. If you pound it in too hard, it can bend the tie, and make the rail out of gauge.
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BerkshireKid
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Unread post by BerkshireKid »

I nail the track down with spikes!!!!!!! :shock: :shock: :D :D :D :D :D :P :P :P
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MUTLINERR
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Unread post by MUTLINERR »

I only use the nails to hold my track down so I can get everything working right. Then I ballast and once the glue has dried the nails are removed. Water proof wood glue holds my cork down and the ballast/glue holds the track. This has worked on every layout I have built or worked on. See some shots of our layout, a work in progress at: www.RUSTYSPIKES.com

Bill

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AARR
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Unread post by AARR »

Looks like you have a lot of switching MUTLINERR to keep you and your group busy :!: I checked out the layout page but didn't see anything. I'd like to see yours and GTW layout plan. Thank you.
PatC created a monster, 'cause nobody wants to see Don Simon no more they want AARR I'm chopped liver, well if you want AARR this is what I'll give ya, bad humor mixed with irrelevant info that'll make you roll your eyes quicker than a ~Z~ banhammer...

MUTLINERR
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Unread post by MUTLINERR »

Yes there is a lot of switching. We are debugging the car card system right now. Once that is done we should be able to support 7-10 opperatetors running at least 13 frieghts with 2-7 passenger trains. All I can say is thank God for DCC!
The web site too is a work in progress. I do have some drawings but I'm not sure how up to date they are. I will check and see if I can get them on the web site or maybe even posted here. I haven't tried posting anything here yet, that could be interesting.

Bill

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danted23
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Unread post by danted23 »

Thanks a lot guys. I'm leaning towards letting the ballast hold the track down.

Thanks for everyone's input!

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Unread post by Mike »

There is also using cauk to hold the cork and track in place I LOVE it. Granted you can use track nails to hold it in place. But is goes so much faster and you dont end up with peskie holes in the ties.
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