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I'm going to scrap my current layout and go for an industrial intensive switching layout. I plan on doing a point to point with hand laid code 70 track. I'm going to do handlaid track because I feel that I can make it more "rough" than sections or flex track. Does anybody here know of any good photo how to websites or possibly a book? I've only laid flex track before. The next thing after I lay track will be the switches, ballast or lack of and "breaking the ties". I want this layout to look like the MAW to give you an idea of how I want track.

Be sure to try a section of track before going too far. The problem with model railroading is the weight of the cars. I'm afraid if you do the track the way you explain it, you'll have nothing but derailments and that will get frustrating real quick.

Old Hogger wrote:Be sure to try a section of track before going too far. The problem with model railroading is the weight of the cars. I'm afraid if you do the track the way you explain it, you'll have nothing but derailments and that will get frustrating real quick.

Old Hogger makes a good point. But if you operate at very slow speeds like prototype excepted track it will look really cool

Good point Old Hogger. In the process of ripping up the old track the ties didn't want to come up with the rail so I plan to incoproate at least part of the old road bed with ties into the new layout. My plan is to make the track move wavey vs. hilly and super elevate the track briefly in some spots. I suppose I will find out how that works when I get my rail and ties next week. As for now I need to decide what type of material I want to use for road bed, I'm thinking of a mix between N scale cork road bed and laying it directly on the foam. But I still have a ton of cleaning to do before I'm even close to laying track. Hopefully it will pay off working on railroad track every day and I can bring some cool details from the actual railroad track to the layout.

As someone who has handlaid some shoddy looking track that still works, I can give you some pointers. All my track (excepting my staging yard) is handlaid Micro Engineering code 40, 55, 70, 83 rail on wood ties or Central Valley tie strips. I've tried spikes and various adhesives: spikes go in quick and hold very well, but can be rather ugly, whereas adhesives give a clean look (no huge spike heads) but can wear loose with time and expansion/contraction. If you go the spike route, it really helps to predrill holes; trust me.
As for roadbed, I prefer cork or foamboard (the project/sign board or Gator board type stuff). Putting ties directly on the pink/blue foam also works, but the foam does not do much to help hold spikes. Avoid the really soft foam (Woodland Scenics) or the AMI roadbed; it's possible but very difficult to handlay track on these.
You can get wobbly track either by using warped roadbed (the project board can be really good for this) or putting stripwood/styrene under between the roadbed and ties. Feel free to use cheap thin plywood for the subroadbed as well, it can really add some cool hills.
As you put track down, use a truck/typical freight car to test the gauge and level of the track to make sure it works. Don't rely on a track gauge only. Spikes have the advantage here, since they allow slight adjustments to gauge after installation.
If your equipment is in good working order, meaning properly gauged metal wheels, freely moving trucks, and freely operating couplers (don't neglect couplers, they need vertical play to keep from lifting adjacent cars off the rails), then you can have zero problems with rickety track. Heavy weight is overrated. Sprung trucks are a huge help but not necessary.
Turnouts are another story: don't even try to make them look rickety. You can use large tie spacing and small rail, but that's about it. I would recommend looking into Central Valley turnout kits: good detail and operation without having to get in over your head learning how to handlay turnouts (at first, anyway). I taught myself how to handlay turnouts with PC board, and it took a while to get a turnout that worked well.
I don't know of any books or websites that discuss handlaying track in detail, though I'm sure there are some. If you're interested, I can post some photos of my work, though they won't explain exactly how I laid it. Anyway, just practice a bit and don't be afraid to rip out and re-lay track that doesn't look or work as well as you want.

Ryan