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I was wondering what some of you serious modelers on here have done on the way of switch track details. I purchased a Caboose Hobbies ground throw to experiment with on my Greenville module but dont like how unrealistic it looks. I like some of the detailed switch stands out there but correct me if Im wrong, are just for looks and not functional? I dont have, nor intend to install, electric switches as Im modeling a branch line and have no problem switching the track with my index finger, but would like to detail the trackside a bit with the tall switch stands that were common on the ex C&O line like Mark F posted.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14672

I use the N scale ground throws on my HO layout. A lot closer to HO scale (they're huge for N).

Conrail Jon wrote:I use the N scale ground throws on my HO layout. A lot closer to HO scale (they're huge for N).

If I were to start over I would probably do like CRJon but I have already bought a bunch of HO ground hand throws so continue to use them. Considering I am an old fart in trining and the HO is a little bigger its probably better I use them anyway

I do the same as CR Jon and use the Caboose Ind. sprung N scale throws in HO - they work fine with my Atlas code 83 no. 505/506 #6 SuperSwitches. Most - if not all - of the scale replicas of high switch stands are dummies and inoperative scenic features. That may be OK with you to not have them rotate as you swing the points from normal to reverse and back again. However, I believe there was an article in MR on modifying a commercial switch stand model to have the blades rotate with the turnout - from what I recall it was the guy that proto-freelances the Maumee Route (can't remember his name right now).

Me, I like the way the Caboose Ind. ground throws feel like you're actually on the ground, throwing the switch like a prototype brakeman or conductor. Sure, it bothers me a little that there's no moving target but there's a lot of prototype ground throws that are missing the targets too. I'd rather have a throw that's a little out of scale to have the prototype action of actually throwing the switch at the actual switch, instead of a motor or fascia-mounted knob, etc. Of course, you could go really simple if you use Micro Engineering or Peco turnouts and forgo the throw completely. Lance Mindheim also uses scale stands and just slides the points back and forth with his switch pick. It doesn't get any simpler than that.

Go to the Details West website and download
the PDF of the catalog. Lots of goodies on pages
16-18. 2 tall switchstands and a shorty and lots
of other items like relay cabinets, phone boxes,
fishplates, derailers and deicing equipment.
Some might apply to what you're doing. You may
also want to nose around the proto 87 stores at
http://www.proto87.com There's a lot there that can
be used for even though you're not using proto 87.

Well another reason Id like to go the detailed switch stand route is I didnt provide ample room to add those ground throws when placing my yard tracks, so the detailed, compact, static switch stands may be my best option. One of my regrets building my module.

The Central Valley turnout detail kit includes a 'working' switchstand. You can't use the switchstand to line the switch, but if you move the points the target will rotate. It's made for use with their turnout kits, but can be adapted to pretty much any brand of turnout. Note that they also sell just the switchstands (in a 6 pack, I believe), but these don't include the parts to make them operational.

I purchased a dozen or so N scale stands for use on my O scale layout. But they dont look good at all. I may use an HO upright stand they make ( i think). For HO, the P87 Store is pretty extensive and offers any modeler something.

Patrick Welch

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/p ... ts_id=2423

I really like the ease of the Caboose Industries ground throws, but I have also noticed a few modelers using the Peco turnouts which I like minus the stands al together.

I'm slowly starting work on an N scale layout. What do you guys recommend for non-powered switches?

MQT3001 - I use Micro Engineering code 70 pre-weathered turnouts, but the problem with them is that they are power routing, which means they have to have special wiring to make them work well. The ME turnouts look good and will work with code 80 track if you work with the track connectors a little, and you need to shim the ME turnout a little so that the code 70 rail meets the code 80 track, or you can file the code 80 a little to ease the transition to code 70. The ME turnouts are more like scale models of actual turnouts, having a more realistic tie spacing, and the turnouts I bought several years ago came with dummy switch stand parts that you can use if you have switch machines under the layout - and I just use a plastic rod to manually operate the turnouts. If you use a switch machine under the layout, you have to remove the metal "spring" that keeps tension on the turnout rails.

I'm still trying to find a good way to use a small slide switch to operate the turnouts and to route power to the turnouts properly.

So if you really don't mind turnouts not being more to scale, I have heard lots of good stuff about the Peco turnouts. Bottom line is that ME turnouts look good, but are a bit pricey, sometimes hard to find in stock, and can be a pain to modify for power routing and manual vs motorized control.

Tlout wrote:MQT3001 - I use Micro Engineering code 70 pre-weathered turnouts, but the problem with them is that they are power routing, which means they have to have special wiring to make them work well. The ME turnouts look good and will work with code 80 track if you work with the track connectors a little, and you need to shim the ME turnout a little so that the code 70 rail meets the code 80 track, or you can file the code 80 a little to ease the transition to code 70. The ME turnouts are more like scale models of actual turnouts, having a more realistic tie spacing, and the turnouts I bought several years ago came with dummy switch stand parts that you can use if you have switch machines under the layout - and I just use a plastic rod to manually operate the turnouts. If you use a switch machine under the layout, you have to remove the metal "spring" that keeps tension on the turnout rails.

I'm still trying to find a good way to use a small slide switch to operate the turnouts and to route power to the turnouts properly.

So if you really don't mind turnouts not being more to scale, I have heard lots of good stuff about the Peco turnouts. Bottom line is that ME turnouts look good, but are a bit pricey, sometimes hard to find in stock, and can be a pain to modify for power routing and manual vs motorized control.

Thanks! I won't be using any powered turnouts---I'll likely be getting any switches used from Hobby Recycling in GR, but I wanted to know in case I decided to use motors.

if you don't care about looks just use the standard common Atlas Code 80 switch with the giant switch machine. if you do care about looks then you're on you're own for finding something that looks and works good.

Nick, I would suggest using Bluepoint switch controllers but they can be a little expensive. another alternative that I have yet to explore is the fast tracks http://www.handlaidtrack.com/BullFrog-M ... f-0002.htm