Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

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railohio
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Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by railohio »

The Wabash switcher at the Bellevue museum is listed for sale on Ozark Mountain. For just $22,000 you can have a piece of Ohio railroad history!

http://www.ozarkmountainrailcar.com/det ... EDUCED-613
"I shot the freight train / But I did not shoot the fantrip"

JStryker722
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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by JStryker722 »

$22,000 plus the cost of moving it,storing/display costs,and repair/restoration costs. Just saying lol
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railohio
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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by railohio »

It's likely privately owned and kept at the museum.
"I shot the freight train / But I did not shoot the fantrip"

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by SousaKerry »

IIRC the owner has been trying to sell it for many years with no takers. He even offered to sell it to me as a joke when I was a teenager when I asked about it. It had the same ground fault relay problem then. The story goes that the owner and another guy bid to operate the Seneca Sandusky Port Authority tracks between Tiffin and Woodville. THe SSPA decided to go with Indiana Hi-Rail because they had real railroad experience and were not just railfans with a locomotive. We all know how well that ended for them.. Of coarse Indiana Hi-rail is long gone and this line is operated by Omnitraxx as the the Northern Ohio and Western.
What smells like lube oil and diesel.... Oh wait it's just my "Locomotive Breath"

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by MQT1223 »

Sharp machine. Put it back in Bluebird paint and she will look good as new. She will go to a new home at some point but for now at least she is safe where she is.
1223 OUT! President and Founder of the Buck Creek Central, the Rolling River Route! (2012-2017) President and Founder of the Lamberton Valley Railroad, The Tin Plate Road! Proudly railfanning with Asperger's since 1996. :)

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by Notch 8 »

Would a set of Blomberg trucks from a GP9 fit under this locomotive ?

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by Bulby »

Notch 8 wrote:Would a set of Blomberg trucks from a GP9 fit under this locomotive ?
No.
Apparently I work on GEs now...

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by dmitzel »

MQT1223 wrote:Sharp machine. Put it back in Bluebird paint and she will look good as new. She will go to a new home at some point but for now at least she is safe where she is.
Never was painted in Bluebird - no WAB switchers were. Just basic black with some yellow on the handrails.
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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by MQT1223 »

dmitzel wrote:
MQT1223 wrote:Sharp machine. Put it back in Bluebird paint and she will look good as new. She will go to a new home at some point but for now at least she is safe where she is.
Never was painted in Bluebird - no WAB switchers were. Just basic black with some yellow on the handrails.
This is something I did not know. Thanks for the info. Would look good in both if it was painted either way.
1223 OUT! President and Founder of the Buck Creek Central, the Rolling River Route! (2012-2017) President and Founder of the Lamberton Valley Railroad, The Tin Plate Road! Proudly railfanning with Asperger's since 1996. :)

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by EWRice »

You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by MQT1223 »

EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
I wouldn't be suprised if it got re-engined at some point if it came with an early prime mover.
1223 OUT! President and Founder of the Buck Creek Central, the Rolling River Route! (2012-2017) President and Founder of the Lamberton Valley Railroad, The Tin Plate Road! Proudly railfanning with Asperger's since 1996. :)

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by Bulby »

EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
Last time I checked, Hatch & Kirk still sells the components for the AC/BC conversions.
Apparently I work on GEs now...

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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by EWRice »

Bulby wrote:
EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
Last time I checked, Hatch & Kirk still sells the components for the AC/BC conversions.
When I talked to them last April about it, they said that the conversion parts were still available, but were starting to get scarce. My understanding is that you can use the 567C power assemblies (with the corresponding A or B head) or you can use the 645 assemblies (again with the A or B head) as long as the block has been converted. There en-lies the problem: getting an existing C conversion block, or having your existing block converted. The A and B heads are starting to disappear too. I talked to H&K and Peaker about converting a B block. Nobody will do it without pulling and stripping the block. $$$$$$$$$ By the time you are done, you could go out and purchase a running SW1200 with C block, roller bearings, 26 brake and MU-able.


MQT1223 wrote:
EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
I wouldn't be suprised if it got re-engined at some point if it came with an early prime mover.
You have to have a pretty major bottom end failure to justify a change like that. The EMD 2 strokes were designed to be overhauled over and over without ever pulling the engine. As long as you don't have a crank or main bearing failure, or a gear train failure, you can change power assemblies, bearings, cam segments, etc. Very good design. The problem with the early blocks (other than lower liner seals) is that the front plumbing stack and pump layouts is different. A is different from B is different from C. That is why the AC and BC blocks have value and are hard to find. A BC block will replace a B block almost perfectly. I don't know about the earlier blocks but I imagine they share the same problems. I know one of the earlier blocks had a top deck cracking issue as well.

Bulby
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Re: Want to buy a Wabash switcher?

Unread post by Bulby »

EWRice wrote:
Bulby wrote:
EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
Last time I checked, Hatch & Kirk still sells the components for the AC/BC conversions.
When I talked to them last April about it, they said that the conversion parts were still available, but were starting to get scarce. My understanding is that you can use the 567C power assemblies (with the corresponding A or B head) or you can use the 645 assemblies (again with the A or B head) as long as the block has been converted.
The big thing is the water jumpers & manifold (C/D/E conversion) vs. water deck (A/B), if the water jumpers & manifold have been installed in place of the water deck, you can use 567C/D power assemblies or 645E power assemblies (after you adjust the counterweights on the crank to accommodate the increased mass). The SRNJ F7s are 645BE for example. Some outfit is/was modifying 645E heads for use on 567A/B engines.

EWRice wrote:
MQT1223 wrote:
EWRice wrote:You can find many good looking NW2s and early SWs out there for nearly scrap price. Nobody wants them if they have plain bearings and an A or B block prime mover. To difficult to move and too many problems with lower liner seals. If your lucky you can find one with an AC or BC block. Then you still have to move it. I would be curious to know what prime mover is in that unit.
I wouldn't be suprised if it got re-engined at some point if it came with an early prime mover.
You have to have a pretty major bottom end failure to justify a change like that. The EMD 2 strokes were designed to be overhauled over and over without ever pulling the engine. As long as you don't have a crank or main bearing failure, or a gear train failure, you can change power assemblies, bearings, cam segments, etc. Very good design. The problem with the early blocks (other than lower liner seals) is that the front plumbing stack and pump layouts is different. A is different from B is different from C. That is why the AC and BC blocks have value and are hard to find. A BC block will replace a B block almost perfectly. I don't know about the earlier blocks but I imagine they share the same problems. I know one of the earlier blocks had a top deck cracking issue as well.
The top deck cracking is on the 16-567U model, most of those are long gone.
Apparently I work on GEs now...

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