Autoracks To Curve Radiuses?

[Racer]

I have no idea on this so I'm asking you model railroading experts if Atlas-type Autoracks will fit the radius of EZ Track curves in HO Scale?

[cnw8835]

It would help if you would tell us what radius curves you have. EZ-Track comes in 15", 18", 22", 26", 28", 33.25" and 35.5" radius pieces.
That said, the Atlas website says 22" minimum is possible, but 24" is recommended.

[Racer]

It would help if you would tell us what radius curves you have. EZ-Track comes in 15", 18", 22", 26", 28", 33.25" and 35.5" radius pieces.
That said, the Atlas website says 22" minimum is possible, but 24" is recommended.

Ok, I know this is an incredibly stupid question, but how do you measure a curve radius?

[Stitch]

All my track non-easy track has the radius imprinted on the bottom. That said you could lay out a full curve of track and then measure the inner U with a tape measure. Or is it the outer rail hmmm...

[Racer]

All my track non-easy track has the radius imprinted on the bottom. That said you could lay out a full curve of track and then measure the inner U with a tape measure. Or is it the outer rail hmmm...

Yeah, I thought that might be the method of measuring the radius.

[Garry K]

You will want a minimum of 24" radius (in HO scale) for Walthers autorack cars. They can't take sharper curves because the center sill will interfere with the wheels, although you could grind/file away some of the center sill to enable them to take sharper curves.

You will also find the long cars like autoracks are way more sensitive to track height differences and so will uncouple more frequently than shorter cars running over the same section of track. I solved that problem by using shelf couplers (Kadee #118) so the couplers don't ride up and over each other. However, that leads to other problems! If you have track on a curve with height rises/dips, since the couplers can't rise up and down it will tend to raise the truck/wheels of one of the cars, so sometimes the wheels will ride over the outside rail and the car will derail.

The moral of the story is to have a level subroadbed without dips in it!

Garry K

[CAT345C]

chris, i'm telling you flex track is the way to go, you can make it the way you want, if you can bend it, you can make it

[Racer]

chris, i'm telling you flex track is the way to go, you can make it the way you want, if you can bend it, you can make it

I know you said that, but I want to use a track system that I can easily be modified, remove a section without special tools or cutters, and the switches have pre-wiring in them so I can set-up switchboards all in one area like Justin did on his layout. I also found last saturday my two 10 gallon totes of my EZ Track that I had when I was younger. I tested out my SP SD45 today and there was no splitting switches or derailments.

[Justin]

Well I guess I am lucky because I have dips rises and falls and have one Walthers autorack. I have had no problem what so ever running it on the sharp curves. Only thing is it doesn't look prototypical but I don't care that much. I have a video of this and will upload later in another thread.

[Racer]

I mesured my radius and it's 36 inches which I guess is 18' so I need to buy EZ track curves that are 22'. Great..........more money on track and less on trains.

[Justin]

Just to correct ya Chris the 36 inches would be your diameter so your radius would be 18" which is half of 36. Now when you get your 22" EZ Track it would measure 44" in a full circle.

[i995impalass]

Chris why dont you just buy some flex track for your curves now that you have 18 curves and have to rebuy?? The only tools you would need for flex track is wire cutters. Im guessing your going to solder the joints right?

[Racer]

I know Flex-track is good, but I'm bad at bending that type of track and I just want to simply lay track and run trains, but using track that has pre-wiring and pre-made road-bed.

For Justin:

What radius is your curves. They look like they might be 18'.

[Justin]

If you do get flex track what you would want to do is have a radius gauge so when you bend it you will get the raduis you want with acuracy. I am thinking about getting EZ Track again. I had it before but always had problems with it having derailments, however that was when I lived in a mobile home and had to put it together and take apart all the time. That wears out those railjoiners in a hurry so I got the power loc to remedy this problem. But I am finding the power loc to be somewhat toylike and the EZ Track looks more real. If I do switch to EZ Track I am definatly going with Nickel Silver.